My DIY "How Not to Age" Skincare Routine
Aging is a normal process: it is a gift to grow old. More and more research is pointing to effective ways to stay healthy and support our bodies as we rack up the birthdays. Skin aging is a big concern for many people (myself included!). Genes have surprisingly little to do with how our skin ages. The big culprit is sun exposure—it accounts for 80-90% of facial aging, according to Dr. Michael Greger in How Not to Age. Add to that the decrease in collagen and elastin as we age, and you’ve got a killer combination for thinner, more wrinkly skin that doesn’t bounce back as well as it used to. No fair!
In How Not to Age, Dr. Greger ticks through the research literature on what can help improve our skin as well as products and procedures that get a lot of marketing hype but have little evidence of effectiveness (and some that might even do us harm). See my Summary of How Not to Age or read Dr. Greger’s book for the details—fascinating stuff.
What I stopped using after reading the book
Before I read How Not to Age, I used prescription Retin A (aka tretinoin) on my skin. But Dr. Gregor cited a research study (available here) that unexpectedly revealed an association between topical tretinoin therapy and premature death among older men. The results have been debated, and whether to use tretinoin or not is a personal decision. But I decided to stop using Retin A. (Note that retinol creams appear to be safe and effective.)
Dr. Greger’s hero ingredients, niacinamide and Vitamin C
Dr. Greger recommends incorporating two ingredients to keep skin healthy, niacinamide and vitamin C. These two ingredients are easy to find, simple and effective. Both of these ingredients combat skin aging from many angles.
Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, can lead to reductions in wrinkles, fine lines, blotchiness, and sallowness. One of its key features is its ability to strengthen the skin's natural barrier. A strong skin barrier improves moisture retention, reducing dryness and flakiness, and making the skin feel more hydrated and smooth. Niacinamide is also effective at controlling sebum (oil) production, making it an excellent option for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin. You heard that right, this hero ingredient helps control oil for oily skin users, and improves moisture retention for dry skin. The ultimate skin balancer! Its antioxidant properties protect the skin from environmental stressors, such as pollution and UV damage, which contribute to premature aging. Additionally, niacinamide helps to fade hyperpigmentation and dark spots. Over time, this leads to a more even skin tone and a brighter complexion. With regular use, niacinamide can help improve skin texture, reduce fine lines, and create a more youthful appearance.
Topical vitamin C offers potent antioxidant properties, which help neutralize free radicals caused by UV exposure and pollution. This protection reduces oxidative stress, a major factor in premature skin aging.
Vitamin C also promotes collagen production, an essential protein for skin firmness and elasticity. After age 25, collagen levels naturally decrease. By stimulating collagen synthesis, vitamin C helps maintain youthful skin texture and tone. Additionally, vitamin C has brightening properties, making it effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and uneven skin tone. Regular use of topical vitamin C can lead to smoother, brighter, and more youthful-looking skin while offering protection against environmental damage.
What I started doing after reading the book
Many skincare products on the market today advertise these ingredients. Dr. Greger mentions his concerns about the stability and efficacy of such products. Luckily, you can make DIY solutions for both of these compounds.
Topical Vitamin C – combine 3 grams (3/4 teaspoon) of L-ascorbic acid powder and 30 grams (3 Tablespoons) of water in an eye-dropper and spread 4-6 drops onto your face and neck once a day. (Note: I make just a half-recipe at a time, because it tends to oxidize and turn yellow when I make a full batch. I also use about 10 drops, not 4-6.) I bought this ascorbic acid powder (about $19, and it will last a long time) on Amazon.
Topical niacinamide cream – whisk 1/2 teaspoon niacinamide (aka nicotinamide) powder into 2-3 tablespoons of a favorite lotion and spread it on your face and neck once or twice a day. I bought this niacinamide powder (about $10, and it will also last a long time) on Amazon.
I’ve been using both of these solutions for over 6 months and have noticed a difference for the better—and that’s after giving up Retin A. I don’t look 25 years younger, but my skin feels a bit firmer and thicker with no new wrinkles or fine lines—in fact, a few seem less prominent. It’s subtle, but I’m happy with them, and you really can’t beat the price; my $30 investment is going to last at least a couple years.